FELINE AGGRESSION - REDIRECTED AGGRESSION

What is it?

Redirected or misdirected aggression is simply a term used to describe the situation where aggression of whatever motivation is directed toward a victim who is not the initial provoking stimulus. This can occur when the cat is unable to direct its aggression toward the provoking stimulus due to confinement, restraint or lack of opportunity in some other way. For example, if your cat is sitting on a windowsill and sees another cat out in the garden he may become very agitated and begin to focus on the other cat and show aggressive body postures, hisses, or growls. If a person or animal in the home were to walk into the room and approach the cat at that precise moment they may find themselves the recipient of an aggressive attack, even though they had done nothing to provoke it. When this scenario involves another resident cat within the household who approaches and inadvertently disturbs such an aroused and agitated housemate there can be long lasting consequences with the two cats seeming unable to tolerate being together after the incident. In extreme cases they may even go so far as to fight on sight. The initial provoking stimulus that arouses the cat is often another cat, but it could be any sight, sound, or source of discomfort that leads to a heightened level of anxiety.

What should I do if that happens?

Firstly, you should avoid an overly aroused cat until it calms down. If the aggression is being redirected toward a second cat in the household, the two cats may have to be separated. In some cats this separation may only need to be for a few minutes, but it is not unusual for it to take hours for the cats to be able to be reintroduced. In rare cases it may take several days and it is possible that reintroduction will never be successful. Such failure to reintroduce is most likely if the redirected aggression was met with retaliation, punishment or some other form of fearful event (perhaps in an effort to separate the cat from the victim). In addition if the attack leads to a change in relationship between the cat and the victim (fear, defensiveness) then the aggression may persist. The best way to calm an agitated cat is to put it in another room and leave it there. If locking up the aggressor in this way is dangerous, it may be necessary to use a large blanket and a thick pair of gloves to safely maneuver the cat into another room. If the problem is recurrent, leaving a body harness with a long lead attached to the cat can be a safe way to control the cat from a distance without the need for direct contact. If the aggression has been directed toward a second cat in the home it is very important to wait until the cats are calm before reintroducing them. The biggest mistake that owners make in trying to resolve this problem is to try and bring the cats together too soon.

How should I get my cats back together again?

Re-introductions are best done slowly. Use food to facilitate calm, non-anxious behavior. The cats need to be far enough apart (10 to 20 feet) so that they are relaxed and will take food or a treat while in the presence of the other cat. For safety and control it is often advisable that the cats have harnesses and leads on them. If the cats will not eat then they are probably too anxious and probably too close together. Try moving the dishes further apart. If the cats still will not eat, separate them until the next feeding. If the cats eat at that time, allow them to remain together while they eat and then separate them. Repeat the procedure at the same distance during the next meal. If things go well the next time the dishes can be moved slightly closer together. If the cats are comfortable, you can leave them together to let them groom and then separate them.

This is a slow process; you cannot rush things. Allowing the cat to interact in an aggressive manner sets the program back. The cats should be separated except when they are either distracted, occupied, or engaged in an enjoyable act such as feeding. Good things need to be associated with the presence of the other cat. It may also be helpful to work toward mixing their scents both by rubbing the cats with towels and then switching the towels from one cat to the other, and by swapping litter trays between them.

If the aggression has not been severe it may be possible to get the cats re-acclimatised to one another through play. The best toy is a rod-type handle with a catnip mouse or feathers on the end for chasing and pouncing. With each cat on either side of a slightly open door introduce the toy and see if they will play with each other.

Another possible way to reintroduce cats is with the use of an indoor pen, but if one of these is to be used you should seek professional help. The idea is to place one cat in the pen while the other cat is loose in the room and the process is best carried out at feeding or play times. You should allow the cats to become comfortable with the presence of one another and then change the occupant of the indoor pen.

Can redirected aggression be directed towards people?

Yes. When redirected aggression is directed toward people the problem has often arisen because the people interacted with the cat when it was very agitated. Avoidance of the aggression-producing situation is necessary. Situations include the sight or sound of intruder cats in the garden, especially in the spring and autumn, new people or pets in the household, loud or unusual noises and a variety of other new or novel stimuli that are sometimes difficult to identify. If the situation cannot be entirely avoided then the owner must learn to avoid the cat, or find a safe way to maneuver the cat into a quiet room until it calms down, as previously discussed.

How can redirected aggression toward people be treated?

In order to resolve the aggression the source of the agitation must be identified and avoided. Since redirected aggression arises out of some other form of aggression that is then directed toward people, identifying and treating the primary source of aggression (e.g. fear) is required. Avoiding exposure can be achieved by keeping the cat confined away from the doors and windows, where the stimulus might be seen, heard, or smelt. This may only be necessary at times when the stimuli, such as other cats, are likely to be around. If it is not practical to prevent exposing your cat to the stimulus, it might be possible to reduce the anxiety and arousal with a desensitization and counter-conditioning program Discuss this with your veterinary surgeon.

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