FLEA CONTROL
Where does my cat get fleas from?
The most common flea found on cats and dogs is the cat flea (Ctenocephalides
felis). Rarely rabbit fleas or hedgehog fleas are found on cats.
The most important source of cat fleas is newly developed adult fleas in pupae
in your house. Adult fleas live and feed on animals but the female lays eggs
which fall off into the environment. Under favorable conditions these eggs develop
first into larvae and then into pupae. The pupae contain adult fleas which lie
in wait for a suitable animal host. Modern carpeted centrally heated homes provide
ideal conditions for the year round development of fleas. The highest numbers
of flea eggs, larvae and pupae will be found in areas in the house where pets
spend most time such as their beds, the furniture and so forth. Even though
fleas may be in your house you probably won't see them; the eggs are too small
to see without magnification and the larvae which are just visible migrate deep
down into carpets, furniture or cracks in floors away from the light.
What effect do fleas have on my cat?
Many cats live with fleas but show minimal signs. The following problems can
occur:-
Some cats develop an allergy to flea bites. If these cats are exposed to
fleas they groom or scratch excessively and develop skin disease.
Adult fleas live on animals and feed on blood. In kittens and debilitated
animals this may cause anemia.
The flea acts as the intermediate host for the tapeworm ( Dipylidium
caninum). Tapeworm eggs which are shed within tapeworm segments in cat
feces are eaten by flea larvae which develop into infected fleas. Cats become
infested by eating infected fleas during grooming. Any cat with fleas is likely
also to have a tapeworm infestation.
How can I get rid of fleas on my cat?
This can be a demanding task and requires a three pronged approach. Fleas
need to be eliminated from your cat, from any other cats and dogs that you own
and from your home. Even this rigorous approach may not give 100% control as
there are other sources of fleas that are not amenable to your control such
as other people's pets, wild animals and infested environments which your cat
may come into contact with outside your house.
What products are available to treat my cat?
Insecticides applied to cats are designed to kill adult fleas. Many products
have limited effectiveness because they only work for a few hours after application.
This is particularly a problem with flea shampoos and powders; they kill fleas
present on your cat at the time of application but have little residual effect
so the day after use the cat may again have fleas.
There are now some newer products which should be available from your veterinarian
which have good residual action.
ALWAYS READ THE LABEL CAREFULLY - apply the product as instructed
and repeat at the intervals stated.
My cat hates being sprayed. What can I do?
Many cats strongly dislike being sprayed. Consult your veterinarian, there
are several alternatives available. Flea collars are very convenient but they
don't work well enough to cope in the face of an infested environment or provide
sufficient control for a flea allergic cat. Some cats will develop a skin reaction
to collars. A foam is available which you stroke onto your cat's coat. There
is a new pump spray containing liquid which can be measured out and then stroked
onto your cat's coat. There are several insecticides which are formulated as
"spot ons"; these contain a small volume of liquid which is applied onto the
cat's skin on the back of its neck.
How can I treat my home environment?
A number of different products are available which will kill the stages of
the flea life cycle present in your home such as:-
insecticide sprays for use on the house
sprays containing insect growth regulators for use on the house
a liquid (for cats) or a tablet (for dogs) which is given to the animal
by mouth and which contains a chitin synthesis inhibitor. Adult fleas which
feed on the medicated animal produce eggs which are incapable of hatching
to produce adult fleas so the development of an infested environment is prevented.
All animals in the household need to be treated
insecticides applied by professional pest control operatives to your
house
professional application of borate powder. Ask your veterinarian for
details.
Sprays for use on the house should obviously be used in places where the flea
eggs, larvae and pupae are likely to be. It is worth initially going over the
whole of the house and then concentrating on the hot spots - your cat's favorite
dozing spots - such as soft furniture, beds and carpets. Once they hatch from
the egg flea larvae move away from the light deep into carpets and into other
nooks and crannies and it can be difficult to get insecticides into these places.
So be sure to move cushions and to move furniture and beds to spray underneath.
Other places liked by larvae are skirting boards and the cracks in wooden floors.
Don't forget out of the way places to which your cat has access like the airing
cupboard.
Your pet's bedding should be regularly washed at a high temperature or replaced.
Regular and thorough vacuuming of your carpets, floors and soft furnishings
can remove a large proportion of the flea eggs, larvae and pupae which are present
in your home. You will need to throw away and preferably burn the dust bag to
prevent eggs and larvae developing in there. Vacuuming prior to the application
of a spray to the house is recommended because the vibrations will encourage
newly developed fleas to emerge from pupae which will then be killed by the
insecticide.
ALWAYS READ PRODUCT LABELS CAREFULLY - apply as instructed, use the
quantity suggested and repeat at the intervals stated.
How do I choose which products to use?
A flea control program needs to be individually tailored and take into account
your reasons for doing flea control and the lifestyle of your cat and other
pets. Your veterinarian with his knowledge of the advantages and limitations
of the products available is the best person to advise you about this.
Are insecticides safe for my cat and my family?
Insecticides for flea control should be safe both for animals and humans provided
the manufacturer's instructions are carefully followed. One should be particularly
careful to avoid combining insecticides with similar modes of action. Always
seek your veterinarian's advice if you are unsure about this and always tell
your veterinarian about any flea control products you may be using other than
those which he has prescribed.
Certain types of pets (e.g. fish, amphibia, reptiles and invertebrates) may
be particularly susceptible to some products. Do not use any flea control products
in the room in which these pets are kept without first consulting your veterinarian
for advice.
I have not seen any fleas on my cat. Why has my veterinarian advised flea
control?
Fleas are easy to find if a cat is heavily infested. If fleas are present
in smaller numbers it can be harder to see them and they move fast. Try looking
on the cat's belly, around the tail base and around the neck. Sometimes adult
fleas cannot be found but "flea dirt" can be seen. This is fecal matter from
the flea which contains partially digested blood and is a good indicator of
the presence of fleas. Flea dirts are small black specks or coiled structures;
if you are not sure place them on damp white tissue and they will dissolve leaving
a reddish brown blood residue. Flea dirts may be found in cat's bedding even
when they cannot be found on the cat.
In cats that develop an allergy to fleas one of the symptoms is excessive
grooming. Cats are very efficient at removing debris from their coat's using
their tongues and may succeed in removing all evidence of flea infestation i.e.
adult fleas and flea dirt. One of the commonest causes of feline allergic skin
disease is flea allergy. To investigate this possibility your veterinarian may
advise rigorous flea control even though no fleas can be found. If the cat's
skin problem improves with flea control then it suggests that flea allergy is
involved.
I noticed my cat had fleas after his return from the boarding cattery. Did
he get them at the cattery?
Not necessarily. Newly hatched adult fleas can survive for up to 140 days
within the pupa. When you and your pets are absent from home for extend periods
of time these adult fleas will remain in the pupae because no host is available.
As soon as you or your pet returns these fleas will suddenly emerge in large
numbers and jump onto cats, dogs and even people in the search for a blood meal.
Despite treating my cat for fleas he still has them. Is there a superflea?
Apparent failure of treatment almost always results from inadequate treatment
of the home or exposure to other infested environments. Consider treating garden
sheds, cars and in the summer favored outdoor sleeping spots. Bear in mind that
your cat may be going into other people's houses. A lot of these problems can
be overcome by using a really effective and persistent product on the cat to
kill adult fleas in addition to treating your home.
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